
| Grape Varieties |
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Barbera (Red) [bar-BEHR-uh] Brunello (Red) [broo-NEHL-oh] Cabernet Franc (Red) [cab-er-NAY FRANK] As a varietal wine, it usually benefits from small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and can be as intense and full-bodied as either of those wines. But it often strays away from currant and berry notes into stalky green flavors that become more pronounced with age. Given its newness in the United States, Cabernet Franc may just need time to get more attention and rise in quality. Much blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, it may be a Cabernet Sauvignon mutation adapted to cooler, damper conditions. Typically light- to medium-bodied wine with more immediate fruit than Cabernet Sauvignon and some of the herbaceous odors evident in unripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Sauvignon (Red) [cab-er-NAY SO-vin-yon] Along with Chardonnay, it is one of the most widely-planted of the world's grape varieties. The principal grape in many Bordeaux wines, it is grown in most of the world's wine regions, although it requires a long growing season to ripen properly and gives low yields. Many of the red wines regarded as among the world's greatest, such as Red Bordeaux, are predominantly made from Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. World-class examples can improve for decades, and remain drinkable for a century. Elsewhere in the world—and it is found almost everywhere in the world—Cabernet Sauvignon is as likely to be bottled on its own as in a blend. It mixes with Sangiovese in Tuscany, Syrah in Australia and Provence, and Merlot and Cabernet Franc in South Africa, but flies solo in some of Italy's super-Tuscans. In the United States., it's unlikely any region will surpass Napa Valley's high-quality Cabernets and Cabernet blends. Through most of the grape's history in California (which dates to the 1800s), the best Cabernets have been 100 percent Cabernet. Since the late 1970s, many vintners have turned to the Bordeaux model and blended smaller portions of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petite Verdot into their Cabernets. The case for blending is still under review, but clearly there are successes. On the other hand, many U.S. producers are shifting back to higher percentages of Cabernet, having found that blending doesn't add complexity and that Cabernet on its own has a stronger character. Carignan (Red) [karin-YAN] Carmenere (Red) [car-men-YEHR] Charbono (Red) [SHAR-bono] Chardonnay (White) [shar-dun-NAY] Part of the attraction of Chardonnay, for wine makers and lovers alike, is its versatility. In the U.S., it is often made using full malolactic fermentation to soften the acidity and some oak handling. Without oak, Chardonnay generally produces a soft wine, often with fruity flavors. When aged with oak, Chardonnay can acquire a smokey, vanilla, caramel, and butter aroma. The origin of the oak - either French or American - will affect the final flavor, along with the degree to which any oak barrels were toasted. For budget wines, the oak is added as staves or even chips to stainless steel containers, which is cheaper than oak barrels. When well made, Chardonnay offers bold, ripe, rich and intense fruit flavors of apple, fig, melon, pear, peach, pineapple, lemon and grapefruit, along with spice, honey, butter, butterscotch and hazelnut flavors. Winemakers build more complexity into this easy-to-manipulate wine using common vinification techniques: barrel fermentation, sur lie aging during which the wine is left on its natural sediment, and malolactic fermentation (a process which converts tart malic acid to softer lactic acid). No other white table wine benefits as much from oak aging or barrel fermentation. Chardonnay grapes have a fairly neutral flavor, and because they are usually crushed or pressed and not fermented with their skins the way red wines are, whatever flavors emerge from the grape are extracted almost instantly after crushing. Red wines that soak with their skins for days or weeks through fermentation extract their flavors quite differently. Because Chardonnay is also a prolific producer that can easily yield 4 to 5 tons of high-quality grapes per acre, it is a cash cow for producers in every country where it's grown. Many American and Australian Chardonnays are very showy, well oaked and appealing on release, but they lack the richness, depth and concentration to age and have in fact evolved rather quickly, often losing their intensity and concentration within a year or two. Many vintners, having studied and recognized this, are now sharply reducing crop yields, holding tonnage down to 2 to 3 tons per acre in the belief that this will lead to greater concentration. The only downside to this strategy is that lower crop loads lead to significantly less wine to sell, therefore higher prices as well. Chardonnay's popularity has also led to a huge market of ordinary wines, so there's a broad range of quality to choose from in this varietal. There are a substantial number of domestic Chardonnays, which can range from simple and off-dry to more complex and sophisticated. The producer's name on the wine, and often its price, are indicators of the level of quality. Chenin Blanc (White) [SHEN'N BLAHNK] Dolcetto (Red) [dole-CHET-to] Fume Blanc (White) [FOO-may BLAHNK] Gamay (Red) [ga-MAY] California, meanwhile, grows a variety called Gamay Beaujolais, a high-yield clone of Pinot Noir that makes undistinguished wines in most places where it's grown. In the United States the grape is used primarily for blending, and acreage is declining, as those serious about Pinot Noir are using superior clones and planting in cooler areas. Gewürztraminer (White) [geh-VERTS-trah-mee-ner] It is also popular in eastern Europe, New Zealand and the Pacific Northwest. Grenache (Red) [greh-NAHSH] Also,Grenache Blanc, known in Spain as Garnacha Blanca, which is bottled in the Southern Rhône. It's used for blending in France's Rousillon and the Languedoc, and in various Spanish whites, including Rioja. Grüner Veltliner (White) [GROO-ner VELT-linner] Malbec (Red) [MAHL-beck] Marsanne (White) [mahr-SANN] Merlot (Red) [mur-LO] Merlot is produced primarily in France (where it is the third most planted red grape), Italy (where it is the country's 5th most planted grape) and California, Romania and on a lesser scale in Australia, Argentina, Canada's Niagara Peninsula, Chile, New Zealand, South Africa, Switzerland, Croatia, Hungary, Slovenia, and other parts of the United States such as Washington State and Long Island. It grows in many regions that also grow Cabernet Sauvignon but tends to be cultivated in the cooler portions of those areas. In areas that are too warm, Merlot will ripen too early. In the traditional Bordeaux blend, Merlot's role is to add body and softness. Despite accounting for 50-60% of overall plantings in Bordeaux, the grape tends to account for an average of 25% of the blends-especially in the Graves and Médoc. However, in the regions of Pomerol and Saint-Emilion it is not unusual for Merlot to comprise the majority of the blend. One of the most famous and rare wines in the world, Château Pétrus, is almost all Merlot. In Italy, the Merlot grape is often blended with Sangiovese to give the wine a similar softening effect as the Bordeaux blends. The Strada del Merlot is a popular tourist route through Merlot wine countries along the Isonzo river. In Hungary, Merlot complements Kékfrankos, Kékoportó and Kadarka as a component in Bull's Blood. It is also made into varietal wine known as Egri Médoc Noir which is noted for its balanced acid levels and sweet taste. Mourvedre (Red) [more-VAY-druh] Muscat (White) [MUSS-kat] Nebbiolo (Red) [NEH-bee-oh-low] Petite Sirah (Red) [peh-TEET sih-RAH] There has been much confusion over the years about Petite Sirah's origins. For a long time, the grape was thought to be completely unrelated to Syrah, despite its name. Petite Sirah was believed to actually be Durif, a minor red grape variety first grown in southern France in the late 1800s. However, recent DNA research shows Petite Sirah and Syrah are related after all. A study done at the University of California at Davis determined not only that 90 percent of the Petite Sirah found in California is indeed Durif, but also that Durif is a cross between Peloursin and Syrah. Just to make things more confusing, in France, growers refer to different variants of Syrah as Petite and Grosse, which has to do with the yield of the vines. Petit Verdot The fact that it ripens much later than most of the other varieties of grape means that it cannot successfully be grown in many of the French regions, and is only found in any quantity in the Médoc region of Bordeaux. Its main use is to add aroma, colour, acid and tannin to many of the regions' great red wines by adding quantities of up to 10%. Recently it has been grown in Chile, California, Colorado, Washington, Virginia, Australia, New Zealand, and British Columbia, again being used as a seasoning in cabernet blends. In Australia it is being used increasingly to make varietal wines. When young its aromas have been likened to banana and pencil shavings. Strong tones of violet and leather develop as it matures. It has good mid palate character which Cabernet Sauvignon lacks, hence Petit verdot's use in many Cabernet Sauvignon blends. Pinot Blanc (White) [PEE-no BLAHNK] Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio (White) [PEE-no GREE or GREE-zho] Pinot Noir (Red) [PEE-no NWA] Pinot Noir, the great grape of Burgundy, is a touchy variety. The best examples offer the classic black cherry, spice, raspberry and currant flavors, and an aroma that can resemble wilted roses, along with earth, tar, herb and cola notes. It can also be rather ordinary, light, simple, herbal, vegetal and occasionally weedy. It can even be downright funky, with pungent barnyard aromas. In fact, Pinot Noir is the most fickle of all grapes to grow: It reacts strongly to environmental changes such as heat and cold spells, and is notoriously fussy to work with once picked, since its thin skins are easily bruised and broken, setting the juice free. Even after fermentation, Pinot Noir can hide its weaknesses and strengths, making it a most difficult wine to evaluate out of barrel. In the bottle, too, it is often a chameleon, showing poorly one day, brilliantly the next. The emphasis on cooler climates coincides with more rigorous clonal selection, eliminating those clones suited for sparkling wine, which have even thinner skins. These days there is also a greater understanding of and appreciation for different styles of Pinot Noir wine, even if there is less agreement about those styles—should it be rich, concentrated and loaded with flavor, or a wine of elegance, finesse and delicacy? Or can it, in classic Pinot Noir sense, be both? Even varietal character remains subject to debate. Pinot Noir can certainly be tannic, especially when it is fermented with some of its stems, a practice that many vintners around the world believe contributes to the wine's backbone and longevity. Pinot Noir can also be long-lived, but predicting with any precision which wines or vintages will age is often the ultimate challenge in forecasting. Pinot Noir is the classic grape of Burgundy and also of Champagne, where it is pressed immediately after picking in order to yield white juice. It is just about the only red grown in Alsace. In California, it excelled in the late 1980s and early 1990s and seems poised for further progress. Once producers stopped vinifying it as if it were Cabernet, planted vineyards in cooler climates and paid closer attention to tonnage, quality increased substantially. It's fair to say that California and Oregon have a legitimate claim to producing world-class Pinot Noir. Pinotage Pinotage is a viticultural cross, not a hybrid. In viticulture, a cross is a cultivar which is the result of crossing two or more cultivars within the same species, while a hybrid is a cultivar bred from members of different species. Both of Pinotage's ancestors are vitis vinifera. Pinotage fans, including winemaker Beyers Truter of Beyerskloof Winery, believe that it has a distinctive, refreshing, fruity flavour, with a banana-like taste, earthy tones, and bramble fruit notes. Those who dislike the grape, including many of South Africa's top winemakers, including Andre van Rensburg of the Vergelegen Wine Estate who famously said that "Pinotage is as untenable as child rape", do so with vehemence. The anti-Pinotage brigade accept that good modern examples are far better than the comment by the Masters of Wine would suggest. Open minded tasters on both sides concede that very good Pinotages have been made, but the critics would contend that this has more to do with the skill of the winemaker than any inherent quality in the grape. The variety can be used for fruity red wines capable of aging, as well as blush, fortified 'port' style, red sparkling and other styles. Pinotage is a required component (30-70%) in a Cape blend. Riesling (White) [REES-ling] Riesling is best known for producing the wines of Germany's Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Pfalz, Rheinhessen and Rheingau wines, but it also achieves brilliance in Alsace and Austria. While the sweet German Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese wines, along with Alsace's famed Selection de Grains Nobles, are often celebrated for their high sugar levels and ability to age almost endlessly, they are rare and expensive. More commonly, Riesling produces dry or just off-dry versions. Its high acidity and distinctive floral, citrus, peach and mineral accents have won dry Riesling many fans. The variety pairs well with food and has an uncanny knack for transmitting the elements of its vineyard source (what the French call terroir). The wines from Germany's Mosel region are perhaps the purest expression of the grape, offering lime, pie crust, apple, slate and honeysuckle characteristics on a light-bodied and racy frame. Germany's Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Pfalz regions produces wines of similar characteristics, but with increasing body and spice. In Alsace, Riesling is most often made in a dry style, full-bodied, with a distinct petrol aroma. In Austria, Riesling plays second fiddle to Gruner Veltliner in terms of quantity, but when grown on favored sites it offers wines with great focus and clarity allied to the grape's typically racy frame. In other regions, Riesling struggles to maintain its share of vineyard plantings, but it can be found (often under synonyms such as White Riesling, Rhine Riesling or Johannisberg Riesling) in California, Oregon, Washington, New York's Finger Lakes region, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America and Canada. Ruby Cabernet Ruby Cabernet produces a medium bodied red wine with good colour and a pleasant cherry flavour, but has not yet demonstrated it can produce a quality wine. It is popular with growers because it can withstand high winds and can be planted in areas that other vines cannot. Sangiovese (Red) [san-geeo-VEHS-eh] It is somewhat surprising that Sangiovese wasn't more popular in California given the strong role Italian immigrants have played in the state's winemaking heritage, but now the grape appears to have a bright future in the state, both as a stand-alone varietal wine and for use in blends with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and maybe even Zinfandel. Expect sweeping stylistic changes as winemakers learn more about how the grape performs in different locales as well as how it marries with different grapes. Worth watching. Sauvignon Blanc (White) [SO-vin-yon BLAHNK] Depending on climate, its flavours can range from aggressively grassy to sweetly tropical, although perhaps the most memorable descriptor is "cat's pee on a gooseberry bush", which is also the smell of fresh guava fruit. In France, Sauvignon blanc is grown in Bordeaux, (as white Bordeaux and Sauternes) and the Loire Valley (as Pouilly Fumé, Sancerre, and Sauvignon de Touraine). Sauvignon was not considered a great wine until Sancerre and Pouilly Fumé were 'discovered' in Paris in the 1960s. In the 1990s, wines from New Zealand made the grape quite popular, with less expensive and varietally correct wines, produced by wineries such as Montana, Babich, Hunters and Cloudy Bay Vineyards. Many critics consider the latter to produce the very best Sauvignon Blanc in the entire world. Plantings in California, Australia, Chile, and South Africa are also extensive, and Sauvignon Blanc is steadily increasing in popularity as white wine drinkers seek alternatives to Chardonnay. However, "no other region in the world can match Marlborough, the northeastern corner of New Zealand's South Island, which seems to be the best place in the world to grow Sauvignon blanc grapes" (Taber). Sauvignon blanc's susceptibility to noble rot makes it ideal for production of luscious sweet wines, reaching its heights in Sauternes, blended with Sémillon. In California, until the 1970s, it was usually made as a nondescript semi-sweet wine until Robert Mondavi made a dry varietal he named Fumé Blanc, (a reference to Pouilly Fumé), which became so successful that the name Fumé Blanc is now recognised as a legal synonym for Sauvignon blanc in the US. Canada's Niagara Peninsula makes small quantities of premium quality Sauvignon Blanc that typically preserves high acidity with bright fresh fruit. Leading producers are found in all of the benchlands from the Short Hills Bench to the 20 Mile Bench to the Beamsville Bench to the St. David's Bench. DNA research has identified Sauvignon blanc and Cabernet Franc as the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon. Sauvignon blanc is enjoyed slightly chilled, with fish or cheese, particularly Chevre. It is also one of the only wines that can pair well with sushi. Along with Riesling, it was one of the first fine wines to be bottled in screwcap in commercial quantities, especially by New Zealand producers. It is usually drunk young, as it does not particularly benefit from ageing. Dry and sweet white Bordeaux, typically made with Sauvignon blanc as a major component, is the one exception. Sémillon (White) [SEM-ih-yon] Sémillon is widely grown in Australia, particularly in the Hunter Valley north of Sydney. There are four styles of Sémillon-based wines made there: a commercial style, often blended with Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc; a sweet style, after that of Sauternes; a complex, minerally, early picked style which has great longevity; and, an equally high in quality style which receives oak handling. The latter two styles, pioneered by McWilliam's Mount Pleasant and Tyrrell's, are considered to be unique to Australia. Sémillon is also finding favour with Australian producers outside of the Hunter Valley in the regions of the Barossa Valley and Margaret River. Outside of these regions, however, Sémillon is unpopular — often criticised for lack of complexity and intensity. As such, plantings have decreased over the last century. In the 19th century the grape covered over 90 percent of South Africa's vines (where it was known as Wyndruif – "wine grape"), and Chile's post-war vineyards were made up of over 75 percent Sémillon. Both countries still grow the grape successfully but in vastly reduced quantities. Syrah or Shiraz (Red) [sih-RAH or shih-RAHZ] Shiraz is a grape variety widely used to make a dry red table wine. Shiraz is often vinified on its own, but is also frequently blended with other grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Viognier. It is grown in many wine producing regions around the world. Recently, Australian Shiraz producers have started to add up to 4% Viognier to their Shiraz to add apricot tones to the wine's nose and palette. With such a small percentage added, the producer wasn't obliged to declare the blend on the label. In the past 5 years however, it's becoming increasingly fashionable to label the wine Shiraz Viognier as Viognier gains consumer acceptance in the market place. The practise of blending Viognier with Syrah is actually common for years in the Northern Rhône Valley region of France.[5] Many premium Shiraz-based wines are at their best after some considerable time aged in a cellar (10-15 years). In Australia, Shiraz is also used to make the unique "sparkling Shiraz", a deep-red sparkling wine which also ages well. There is also a small amount of rosé wine produced from the Syrah grape. Before the popularity of Australian Shiraz wine it was very often used to make port.[6] A number of Australian winemakers also make a full-bodied sparkling dry shiraz, a red bubbly, that contains the complexity and sometimes earthy notes that are normally found in still wine. Taste: Tempranillo (Red) [temp-rah-NEE-yo] In Rioja, Tempranillo is often blended with Garnacha, Mazuelo and a few other minor grapes. When made in a traditional style, Tempranillo can be garnet-hued, with flavors of tea, brown sugar and vanilla. When made in a more modern style, it can display aromas and flavors redolent of plums, tobacco and cassis, along with very dark color and substantial tannins. Whatever the style, Riojas tend to be medium-bodied wines, offering more acidity than tannin. In Ribera del Duero, wines are also divided along traditional and modern styles, and show similarities to Rioja. The more modern styled Riberas, however, can be quite powerful, offering a density and tannic structure similar to that of Cabernet Sauvignon. Tempranillo is known variously throughout Spain as Cencibel, Tinto del Pais, Tinto Fino, Ull de Llebre and Ojo. It's also grown along the Douro River in Portugal under the monikers Tinta Roriz (used in the making of Port) and Tinta Aragonez. Trebbiano or Ugni Blanc (White) [treh-bee-AH-no or OO-nee BLAHNK] The French, who also often call this grape St.-Émilion, used it for Cognac and Armagnac brandy; Ugni Blanc grapevines outnumbered Chardonnay by five to one in France during the '80s. Tinta Barocca A Portuguese port-making grape which is now used primarily in South Africa. Also used for blending. Viognier (White) [vee-oh-NYAY] In France, Viognier is the single permitted grape variety in the famous appellations of Condrieu and Château Grillet, which are located on the west bank of the Rhône River, about 40 km south of Lyon. The wines of Condrieu are the most famous, and most expensive, Viogniers in the world. The decline of Viognier in France from its historic peak has much to do with the disastrous introduction of Phylloxera insects from North America into Europe in the mid- and late-1800s, followed by the abandonment of the vineyards due to the chaos of World War I. By 1965, only about 30 acres (120,000 m²) of Viognier vines remained in France, and the variety was nearly extinct. Even as late as the mid-1980s, Viognier in France was endangered. Paralleling the growth of Viognier in the rest of the world, plantings in France have grown dramatically since then. Viognier grapes can be difficult to grow and low yielding. The variety is not very resistant to disease. Some wine critics feel that the terroir (microclimate) of the regions of France where it traditionally is grown is essential to its best expression in wine. It should neither be picked too early nor too late if wine of the highest quality is to be made. The grape prefers warmer environments and a long growing season, but can grow in cooler areas as well. It is a grape with low acidity; it is sometimes used to soften wines made predominantly with the red Syrah grape (Côte Rôtie from France or The Laughing Magpie from South Australia being two examples), and is blended with other white and red varieties, but it can make outstanding wines by itself. The color and the aroma of the wine suggest a sweet wine but Viognier wines are predominantly dry, although sweet late-harvest dessert wines have been made. The best quality Viognier wines are well-known for their floral aromas, due to terpenes, which are also found in Muscat and Riesling wines. There are also many other powerful flower and fruit aromas which can be perceived in these wines (more than one wine enthusiast has even detected aromas of Froot Loops breakfast cereal in Viognier), depending on where they were grown, the weather conditions and how old the vines were, with vines greater than twenty years old thought to be superior to younger vines. Although some of these wines, especially those from old vines and the late-harvest wines, are suitable for aging, most are intended to be consumed young. Viogniers more than three years old tend to lose much of the floral aromas that make this wine unique. Aging these wines will often yield a very crisp drinking wine which is almost completely flat in the nose. Weisser Riesling Zinfandel (Red) [ZIHN-fan-dell] Zinfandel's popularity among consumers fluctuates. In the 1990s Zinfandel is enjoying another groundswell of popularity, as winemakers took renewed interest, focusing on higher-quality vineyards in areas well suited to Zinfandel. Styles aimed more for the mainstream and less for extremes, emphasizing the grape's zesty, spicy pepper, raspberry, cherry, wild berry and plum flavors, and its complex range of tar, earth and leather notes. Zinfandel lends itself to blending. Zinfandel is a challenging grape to grow: its berry size varies significantly within a bunch, which leads to uneven ripening. Because of that, Zinfandel often needs to hang on the vine longer to ripen as many berries as possible. Closer attention to viticulture and an appreciation for older vines, which tend to produce smaller crops of uniformly higher quality, account for better balanced wines. —-Excerpted from James Laube's book "California Wine," with some additions by James Molesworth |